Oysters. Tiny Olympias from Pickering Pass. There's oysters and then there's winter oysters when they're at their best, tiny and clean and firm and concentrated, melony, briney, beyond words like delicious. They make it like the universe is on its side and I'm the only one standing, on the deck, in the winter sun. And then to wash that down with a tight, nervy, energetic Chardonnay... oh man.